Mary Beth Stowe's Website

I skipped breakfast again, figuring I
could collect enough snacks for our sack lunch to cover that when I got hungry.
The weather was still crummy heading out, but we were hoping that would bring
out the animals. We met Cissy, our bus driver, who it turned out is from
Encinitas, CA originally (just north of San Diego)! Things were slow
starting out, but at the Polychrome Overlook Kevin found a Golden Eagle sitting
on a crag (everyone was amazed that he managed to spot it in the first place)!
There was a crag called Marmot Rock here where a Gyrfalcon often perched, but he
didn't show, but we did see some distant Dall Sheep up on the mountain. Also at
the Savage River (I think) was a small group of Harlequin Ducks. It was also at
the first rest stop that I happened to run into Liz and her tour bus, so that
was fun! We were looking forward to sharing stories at dinner!

Heading into the National Park
Scenes along the main road
One of the many rivers along the route
Harlequin Ducks
View from Polychrome Overlook
Another overlook
On we went, and we had distant looks at
more Dall Sheep, Moose, Caribou, and Grizzly, plus a couple of false alarms (I
called a shrike that turned out to be a White-crowned Sparrow, and Marshall
called a Hawk Owl that morphed into a Gray Jay; Cissy teased us by saying, "If
you make me stop for a magpie, you're off the bus!"). We were stopped for
something else and someone spotted a black-capped thing on the ground, swiveling
its head back and forth, which for the longest time we couldn't figure out, but
when it finally turned in profile it turned out to be a Long-tailed Jaeger on
the nest! But the best show was at the Eilson Visitor's Center: a sow Grizzly
and three cubs were out feeding in the tundra! There were also a couple of
idiots out there with her, trying to take pictures, just as Cissy was warning us
not to do just that or be fined (how about, be eaten??) As we all piled out and
were directed to the viewing platform (the ranger over the PA sounded like a
teacher patiently giving directions to a bunch of rowdy kids), mama bear and her
brood eventually came right up to the willows next to the building! What looks!
They even caged us in until our busses were ready to pick us up! We also
had a freeloading Mew Gull and a cute Say's Phoebe bopping around. Another
Arctic Ground Squirrel was snooping around the bus looking for handouts, which
prompted a Kevin story illustrating why they don't want you feeding the
wildlife: a European tourist was holding up a food item getting the squirrel to
"beg" while his friend took a picture, and right in the middle of all these
tourists a fox saw his opportunity and ran right in and snatched the squirrel,
shook it madly and took off! Everyone was horrified at the fox, but the moral
was, that's what happens when you encourage these things that are otherwise
alert and quick to get fat and lazy!
Animals along the road...
Lady Caribou grazing
The highlight was this mama Grizzly
Why they closed the trail...
with her cubs at the Visitor Center!
More Grizzly portraits (check out
those claws!)
They eventually made it all the way
up to the road and disappeared in the willows (which is why it's so easy to
surprise a Grizzly when you're out hiking...)
Freeloading Mew Gull and Arctic
Ground Squirrels
We thought nothing could top that, but
shortly after we left yet another sow with her single cub was right next
to the road! Then later we saw yet another one further away, whose almost-grown
cub was using the snow pack as a slide! Bird-wise we had a knock-out Willow
Ptarmigan pair right next to the bus, and some Dall Sheep right close to the
road! (One guy on our bus who hunts wild game says their meat is marvelous…) We
were pretty beat by the end of that: the weather was still crummy and I kept
dozing off, but I was looking forward to pizza with the girls!
We spot yet another mama Grizzly with her cub next to the road!
"Wow! Lookit all those weird
animals hanging out of that big box!"
Alaska' state bird (a rather
weathered Willow Ptarmigan) puts in an appearance, too! (Female at right)
Dall Sheep
More scenes heading back
The main road was a tight fit sometimes
when you had two busses passing each
other!
By the time we got to the pizza place my friends Liz and
Betty had already arrived and ordered, and since the place was crowded, I ended
up with Liz and Betty while the rest of the gang sat in the smoky, noisy ol'
bar! Kevin let me know when the pizza was ready, so we girls enjoyed a
good chat, basically about what we had seen and life in Alaska in general.
Liz's take on the bear problem (i.e., how can you bird on your own without
risking being eaten?) is to truly talk to yourself as you hike or sing a song;
she confirmed that you really do have to be making noise to avoid startling a
bear. Pepper spray is a must as well; even Kevin had a big can of the stuff… The
crew had a bunch of pizza left over, so Liz and Betty ended up getting it
(seeing as we really couldn't store it in the coolers without it getting mushy)!
Later I was kicking myself because I had gotten so caught up in conversation
that I completely forgot to take pictures of our little reunion (and I had even
brought the camera for that very purpose)!
On the way back to the hotel a car was stopped for a cow
Moose right next to the road, so we wheeled around and enjoyed her (I thought
Marshall was kidding when he said the car was stopped for a Moose, because I
didn't see it and he just kept on going, but he was serious and said, "Wanna see
it?" Of course we did!) As we were leaving a huge Princess Cruises bus pulled up
behind us and took our place; we saw the door open and were concerned the driver
was gonna let all these people pile out right next to this animal, but he
thankfully didn't.
Moose feeding right next to the
road!
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